Málaga used to be the place you landed and then left for the beach. Not any more. The city has become one of the best places to live on the Costa del Sol, with museums, markets, beaches and a food scene that keeps getting better.
Whether you’ve just moved here, you’re visiting for a weekend or you live up the coast and only come in for the airport, this is our English speaker’s guide to getting the most out of Málaga.
Getting In and Getting Around
- From the airport: the C1 train runs from the airport to Málaga Centro-Alameda in about 15 minutes, and carries on along the coast to Torremolinos, Benalmádena and Fuengirola.
- From Madrid and beyond: the high-speed train arrives at María Zambrano station, a short walk from the centre.
- In the centre: walk. The old town is compact and mostly pedestrian, and parking near Calle Larios can test anyone’s patience. Leave the car in one of the big car parks and explore on foot.
The Old Town in One Afternoon
Start on Calle Larios, Málaga’s marble-paved main street, and follow it to Plaza de la Constitución. From there it’s a short wander to the places everyone should see at least once:
- The Cathedral, known locally as La Manquita, “the one-armed lady”, because its second tower was never finished.
- The Roman Theatre at the foot of the hill, and above it the Alcazaba, a Moorish fortress with beautiful gardens and courtyards.
- Gibralfaro Castle, right at the top. The walk up is steep, but the view over the port, the bullring and the whole bay is worth every step.
Picasso, Pompidou and the Arty Side
Picasso was born in Málaga, and the city is proud of it. The Museo Picasso Málaga sits in a palace in the old town, and his birthplace on Plaza de la Merced is a museum too.
Down at the port, look for the colourful glass cube at Muelle Uno: that’s the Centre Pompidou Málaga. Add the Carmen Thyssen Museum for Spanish painting, and the street art of the Soho district between the centre and the port, and you could easily fill a rainy weekend.
Eat and Drink Like a Malagueño
- Order your coffee the Málaga way. Locals ask for it by how much milk they want: a solo is black, a largo has a little milk, a mitad is half and half, a sombra is mostly milk and a nube is almost all milk. Café Central on Plaza de la Constitución even has the chart on the wall.
- Breakfast is a pitufo. A small toasted roll with olive oil and tomato, or whatever you fancy on top.
- Try the campero. Málaga’s big, round, toasted sandwich, and a proper local lunch.
- Visit the market. The Mercado Central de Atarazanas has a huge stained-glass window, fresh fish, fruit and tapas bars inside.
- Taste Málaga wine. Sweet Málaga wine is poured straight from the barrel at Antigua Casa de Guardia, which has been open since 1840. They still chalk your bill on the bar.
Beaches and Espetos
La Malagueta is the city beach, ten minutes’ walk from the centre. For something more relaxed, head east to Pedregalejo and El Palo, old fishing neighbourhoods with a long promenade and beach restaurants.
This is where to try espetos: sardines on a skewer, grilled over a wood fire in an old boat filled with sand. Simple, smoky and very Málaga.
Green Escapes
- Jardín Botánico La Concepción, a historic tropical garden just north of the city.
- The Caminito del Rey, the famous cliff walkway about an hour inland. Book ahead, it sells out.
- Montes de Málaga, the hills behind the city, with picnic spots and walking trails only minutes from the centre.
Málaga’s Year in Fiestas
- Semana Santa (Easter week): huge processions, with thrones carried through the streets by hundreds of bearers. On Holy Thursday the Spanish Legion carries its Christ through the city, a moment people travel from all over Spain to see.
- Noche de San Juan (23 June): the city heads to the beach for bonfires, music and a midnight paddle in the sea.
- Feria de Málaga (August): a week of flamenco dresses, horses, music and sweet wine. The day fair is in the centre, the night fair at the Cortijo de Torres fairground.
- Christmas: the Calle Larios lights are famous across Spain, with light and music shows every evening through the festive season.
A Few Words That Help
Plenty of people in Málaga speak English, especially in the centre, but a little Spanish goes a long way. You’ll also hear “quillo” everywhere. It’s short for chiquillo and means something like “mate”.
English Radio in Málaga
When you’re stuck on the ring road or crawling into the airport car park, it helps to have something familiar playing. Chilli FM is the English radio station for Málaga and the whole Costa del Sol, with feel-good hits all day. You can listen in the car, at home or on your phone. See How to Listen for every way to tune in, or listen live right now.
Driving in from the coast? Our guides for Apple CarPlay and Android Auto get you set up in a minute.
Enjoy the City
Málaga rewards people who slow down: a coffee ordered the local way, a long lunch, a sunset from Gibralfaro. Take your time, explore a new neighbourhood each visit, and keep the music playing.
